From the long shot category and a big FWIW:
I had an Gigabyte P67 motherboard (also socket 1155) that showed the same behavior. Couldn't get it going and returned it to the local store where I had purchased it originally. Took the tech about two seconds to identify the problem as one of the contact fingers in the CPU socket was very slightly out of alignment. Fixed it with some gentle prodding with a dental pick and the board has been operating normally since.
Thank you for the tip sir, everything is a long shot once you hit this wall, so no worries there!
Not much of a big deal to try this since I'll have to rip everything out for a return anyway, so I will try re-seating the CPU and checking for any misaligned pins in the socket. Maybe I will get lucky :-)
Anyone else with an idea or suggestion?
Thank you for all assistance!
I just unseated the CPU and looked over the socket under bright lights and with good optics, everything looks good, I re-seated the CPU and remounted the heatsink. I have the same exact behavior on boot unfortunately.
Thank you for your suggestion, it was certainly worth checking.
I stepped down to 1600 RAM stick for testing just in case, also same behavior. I see now that after I select to enter setup and the code reads Eb, that after a few minutes when the screen goes black it's showing code: E9.
That says it's entering bios according to the code sheet, but it never actually does. I've waited 30 minutes after the E9 code with no results. Just a black screen and nothing changes it except to reboot again.
Here's a secondary question on the Diagnostic LEDs:
If the light is lit, does that mean that compnent is passing tests for POST?
Or, does it mean that part is failing? The green light being steady infers to me that that compnent is passing post tests.
Confused for sure since they aren't clear what the lights mean past their identifiers for each light.
There is an undocumented action that consists of pressing the power button on the case (or motherboard) and holding it closed for five seconds or so. In theory this will clear the settings in the CMOS memory that holds BIOS settings and force a reset to the shipping defaults.
There is something about the process I can't remember...(take it from me, don't get old)...and that is whether the machine should be unplugged and the CMOS battery removed when you do this. If the machine is plugged in you'll be starting the machine like you normally would, except you hold the button down for additional time.
If the machine should be unplugged and the battery removed, pressing and holding the switch would form a path to ground at pin 18(?) on the ATX main power connector and perhaps that would allow the residual charge in the CMOS to dissipate to ground.
Perhaps someone knowledgeable could step in and shed some light on this for us (or me, anyway). I promise to write it down this time.
I'll take a page out of rbmorse's book. If your keyboard is PS2, try plugging in some USB keyboards into the various USB slots. Also, this could also be a longshot, but try plugging in a mouse as well. This is a visual BIOS, who knows if its looking for a pointing device as well as a keyboard.