I had the USB problem and still have the Wireless desktop problem.
If you disconnect pin 10 the problem goes away. I didn't want to cut the pin on the mobo so I bought a 20 pin male to female adaptor (on ebay, search for USB 3.0 Box Header 20-Pin Male to Female Adapter Extender on ebay) and with a very fine pointed plyers bent pin ( in the adaptor) 10 backwards and forwards until it broke off right at the base of the connector. Pin 10 is diagonally opposite the missing pin i.e. its a 20 pin connector with only 19 pins. I put the adaptor (with pin 10 removed) between the mobo header and the front panel header connector and the problem was fixed.
I believe that Intel has now update the mobo to fix the usb 3.0 issue.
For some reason (the bios) the wireless desktop transmitter drops power when Windows is not running. The Wireless keyboard issue I have not been able to resolve, everytime I need to go into bios I disconnect the wireless desktop and connect a wired mouse and keyboard. You may also find that you can come out of sleep with the wireless desktop because when the pc goes into sleep the power drops off from wireless transmitter plugged into the usb port, another bios issue.
Yes, the front panel USB 3.0 requires the Renesas driver the rear panel uses the Intel USB 3.0 driver.
The USB 3.0 (20 pin plug) only has 19 pins, do you have 2 pins missing, pin 10 & 20?
Could you also let me know what board revision you have, use the Intel ID tool (on line version) available here Desktop Boards — Identify your board using the Intel� Board ID Tool
My board is version: AAG390008-400, I believe the -600 version has been modified to elimate the USB 3.0 issue.
Have you made any progress with the wireless desktop issue?
I've got the front panel problem, and my board is -400.
If Intel had shipped a buggy rev, I'd expect a tech post somewhere warning and advising. Is there any such doc? Seems that the problem is real, but everything I'm seeing is from customers and is anecdotal and theoretical. What does Intel have to say?
I am not aware of anyone from Intel admitting there is an issue. Follow this link http://qdms.intel.com/dm/d.aspx/630E74D6-7A63-42B3-892B-AACA6BDCF04E/PCN111511-01.pdf and you will find Intel Product Change Notification 111511-01 it relates to board a modification that says "It is to prevent false over current error on the Front Panel USB 3.0 header." After reading the document the modified board is not out until November, it was originally due in July, I think.
I think this says there is a problem and possibly a warranty claim for those with boards that does what mine does, brings up an over current error message and non-functioning front panel USB 3.0 ports. Unless Intel come up with a better explanation, that's what I assume. Another thought is that people with cases that have don't have USB 3.0 front panel connectors wont know there is a problem until they upgrade the case, they may never know. If Intel come out and admit a problem it could start a flood of warranty returns, a costly exercise for Intel.
In the mean time to fix the problem buy a "USB 3.0 Box Header 20-Pin Male to Female Adapter Extender" on ebay, they are only about $8.
With needle nose pliers bend (very carefully not to bend the adjacent pins) pin 10 (shown in the next picture) backwards and forwards at its base until it breaks off. Install the adaptor between the header and front panel plug.
I did this and the error message has gone away and the front panel usb 3.0 connectors work.
I did what you (Michael Smith) suggested and it worked! The USB3 front panel sockets are now functional.
For the record, my case is an Antec Solo II. I purchased the connector on eBay, as suggested. I was skeptical, but figured the experiment was safe enough, and the cost was only $7.49. (I wouldn't have risked intentionally breaking a pin off the motherboard!) Here's the current eBay listing:
So this would seem to be a bug in Intel's hardware, and we might reasonably expect Intel would be offering modified adapters to correct it. I don't mind paying the $7.49 to get the thing working, but it's not good that I've got to get this tip from another user instead of an official word from Intel, and breaking off the single pin requires some tools and dexterity.
The fix for the flashing power light may be part of the WHCK issues (Windows Hardware Certification). Itel could have elaborated on the statement in the release notes "Fixed issues related to WHCK". so we know what they fixed. I hope my wake issues are included as well as the wireless desktop not being recognised in post issue are included.
I will update my bios when I have time and let you know.
I flashed my BIOS to version 0091 and it would not go past post after it was done. I tried it twice and had to recover back to version 0083 both times.
The Board Status LEDs were:
A, Hard Drive Activity = off
B, CPU Hot = off
C, VR Hot = off
D, Watch Dog Fire / Back to BIOS = off
E, CPU Initilization = on solid
F, Memory Initilization = on solid
G, Video Initilization = on solid
H, USB Initilization = on solid
I, Hard Drive Initilization = off
J, Option ROM Initilization = off
K, Operating System Start = off
Port 80 POST sequence display reads "92" which is "Detecting the Presence of a keyboard".
I have a OCR Vertex 3 SSD, I suspect that the BIOS update caused issues detecting the SSD. Any suggestions welcome.
I am going to put this out as a post
I updated by using the .BIO file on a USB stick in a USB 2 socket, no issues here, using an Intel SSD.
My steps are:
- Reboot machine and start hitting F2 to enter the BIOS.
- Do a reset to defaults (before attempting to update)
- Save and Exit then as it reboots hit F7 to enter BIOS update screen
- Select the USB drive and the BIO file and update the BIOS.
- When it reboots after the update is complete, immediately hit F2 to get into the BIOS screen, another reset to defaults and reboot
- Straight back into the BIOS and make the necessary setting changes I want
Also make sure options for UEFI secure boot or try UEFI boot first are disabled. By default the new BIOS seems to want to attempt a UEFI boot, and if that doesn't work it tries legacy. I'm not sure how reliable it is trying one and falling back to another.
Maybe that might help.