Rokuda: Thank you very much for joining the Intel® Desktop Boards communities.
In regard to your inquiry, the chipset's chassis intrusion circuit requires an external switch to enable its full and proper use. There are ways to reset the circuit, but there is no guarantee that the intrusion status will not just reassert as a result.
Please refer to the thread below:
Any further questions, please let me know.
Unfortunately, there is not much that we can do to help you here. As was indicated in that other discussion, there is a bug in the BIOS that prevents the password clear process, like that for the chassis intrusion clear process, from working properly. Because this board is in end-of-life status and because Intel exited the desktop Boards business more than three years ago, there are no resources that could deliver a fix for this bug. The other discussion also mentions the fact that Intel's BIOS are stored in the flash component in a secured (encrypted) format. There is thus little chance that you could locate the variable (it's not in a static location) containing the passwords and zap them. Finally, the other discussion also mentions the issues with copying the flash contents from another DX79TO board. This route is fraught with identity problems for the owners of both boards. If you had a dead board whose flash contents were good (and whose identity could be taken over), however, you could try copying its flash and see if the new board works with it...
Sorry I didn't have a better answer; this is the reality of the situation.
P.S. Force this guy to provide the password or make him pay for a replacement board!
Thanks for the reply,
so Intel has tools to alter branding information released for a closed circle, they plug the support cord for public and now refuse to address a kinda acknowledged bug, well knowing that there ist a way.
That to me seems like a very good reason not to buy anything anymore that is intel branded (like the intel NUC or any intel SSDs) since they could end the support for them as well.
I diidn't really bothered asking that ***** anything since he still owes me 3 rents and there has to be an official way to deal with a minor problem like that.
Like Intel boards weren't cheaper than my ASUS Boards (okay that one was, but not the DX79SR) but on them i do not have any problems resetting my password like a customer should be able to.
If the official way of doing things isn't working due to a bug and you cant fix it anymore, you have to provide at least a workaround.
Is that a german mentality thing or am i wrong in some way?
Btw. By saying you i do not mean anyone in person or intel as a company. I mean it in a general way.
Greetings from germany
I am not sure what else to say - but I never let that stop me.
This board was released in 2011. This is 2017, almost 6 years later. Support was provided over the entire warranty period for the board, which was 3 years beyond when the board was discontinued. This is the same coverage that you get for newer products like the NUC; no one was shortchanged by the business discontinuance. If this bug had been reported during this period, it would have been fixed. Unfortunately, it wasn't.
Intel still honors the (3 year) warranty period for folks who subsequently purchased the board new, in a factory sealed (but likely dusty) box, through a legitamite dealer. While bug fixes will not be forthcoming, Intel will replace boards that are still under warranty if a bug like this results in a loss of functionality. If you have had the board for less than 3 years, you should be able to get it replaced. Check your warranty status...
Look, I am retired and I don't have a foot in this game any longer. I still get upset, however, when I see folks disparaging big bad Intel for all the wrong reasons. If you think you are going to get better support from Asus, then by all means go buy their products. Based upon my many years in this game, however, I don't believe this to be the case; Intel has one of the best warranties in the business.
Rokuda: You are welcome. I am sorry I gave you the wrong link. The correct link is the following but basically contains the same information you already saw on this thread above:
As stated by N. Scott Pearson, unfortunately there is no workaround available for this scenario.
Let me apologize for any inconvenience.
Well, here's a workaround that worked for me (only repeat if you are a lunatic or you really know what you're doing):
1. get a Raspberry Pi, a heat gun and a soldering iron.
2. desolder your Winbond 25q64cvsig with the heat gun (do not tear off the eeprom to early or you will lose a soldering pad on the Board like i did)
3. solder any 8pin connector (i took a female 8pin 0.1" header) to your w25q64cvsig (pay attention to the pinout matching the raspberry pi)
4. solder the other connector (male 8pin 0.1" header) to your raspberry (or a raspberry breakout board)
5. take an old IDE cable (ideal cable disance 0.05" same as the w25q64cvsig) an cut yourself 2x4 pin extensions for your motherboard.
6. solder the the "IDE" cable extensions to your board, where your w25q64cvsig was. on the other side, solder another connector (male 8pin 0.1" header)
7. get flashrom running on your raspberry and get a dump of the eeprom (IMPORTANT: repeat at least 2 more times and md5sum the 3 examples to be sure its consistent before flashing another dump to the chip. Save them on another computer and a backup media. do not lose or modify it!)
8. analyze the sh*t out of it until you contact an ebay seller for replacement BIOS chips and ask him to send you a clean <boardname>.bin to flash via SPI (costs ~17USD)
9. flash the .bin from ebay on your w25q64cvsig and boot into the bios (no you can't use it in the long run, since the MAC and other essential parts of the BIOS are missing)
10. in different runs set passwords like "1234567890", "abcdefghijklmn", "opqrstuvwxyz" and so on. dumping it every time on your raspberry.
11. open the dumps in a hex editor, like HxD or something and search for "53 00 79 00 73 00 74 00 65 00 6D 00 50 00 61 00 73 00 73 00 77 00 6F 00 72 00 64" (S.y.s.t.e.m.P.a.s.s.w.o.r.d)
12. directly after that there are 54 Hex Blocks which contain your set password. it looks something like that "D0 FF D1 FF D3 FF 9E FF 9D FF 9C FF 9B FF 9A FF 99 FF 98 FF" (set password was "-.,abcdefg") you can ignore the FF's, they aren't important.
13. go on like that until you have every hex value for your set password in your original dump. now you can translate the password from your original dump
14. flash your original dump to your w25q64cvsig and connect it to your board. type in your translated password and delete it for eternity.
15. (optional) remove the wires and solder the w25q64cvsig back on the board.
have a nice day.
btw: here are the value i already translated in the process of getting my password. ... and some photos
ce = 1
cd = 2
cc = 3
cb = 4
ca = 5
c9 = 6
c8 = 7
c7 = 8
c6 = 9
cf = 0
d0 = -
d1 = .
d3 = ,
9e = a
9d = b
9c = c
9b = d
9a = e
99 = f
98 = g