I've never had the capability to do any home networking before and the Compute Stick is supposed to be able to perform several tasks using Wi-Fi Direct, so I tried testing some of the possibilities with my Compute Stick and wanted to discuss some of my successes and failures.
This is supposed to be a subset of Wi-Fi Direct but miracast and other Wi-Fi direct connections seem to be disjoint in that connecting one way doesn't seem to directly enable you to use the properties of the other style of connection.
This test was pretty straightforward: On my Samsung 50HU6950 I navigated to Source->Screen Mirroring and then on the Compute Stick hit <WINDOWS>+K, then <TAB> to select my TV and <ENTER> to choose it. I give the keystroke sequence here because in some contexts it may be necessary to login blind. At this point, you can hit <WINDOWS>+P to bring up a menu of 2-monitor modes:
- Second Screen Only
The initial mode is Duplicate, so <DOWN><DOWN><ENTER> at this point would results in second screen only, which is the only mode that works if you started out blind.
Now we can hit <WINDOWS>+I to bring up Settings. If it's not in the screen we want, it's easiest to use aero snap to move the Settings windows from one monitor to another: <SHIFT>+<WINDOWS>+<RIGHT> or <SHIFT>+<WINDOWS>+<LEFT>. Again from Setting, select System->Display->Advanced display settings and select the monitor you want to adjust. Then Display adapter properties->List all modes and scroll to the mode you want, select OK, then Apply. If, on the sink display, I selected a frame rate of > 30 Hz, the TV would go black and not come back, which is unusual because usually Windows gives you a chance to revert if something bad happens and you take no action within 15 seconds. So you might have to disconnect and reconnect if that happens to you.
I tried setting the sink display to 1920X1200 @ 30 Hz, started up Internet Explorer, moved it to the sink display, and played a YouTube video full screen @ 1440p. The video jumped occasionally. Then I tried setting the sink display to 1920X1080 @ 30 Hz and play a YouTube video full screen @ 1080p. Not so bad, but when I started another instance of Internet Explorer on the source display (Set to 1920X1080 @ 60 Hz) full screen @ 1080p, the sink display got all messed up while the source display video played smoothly. The sound would switch as it wished from one context to the other.
Also the keyboard and mouse were quite laggy on the sink display, enough so that it was almost unusable. So I hit <WINDOWS>+P again and selected Disconnect.
This one is rather awkward for me to test because my only available source requires physical removal of the video card and uninstalling the NVIDIA video drivers so that the Intel on board graphics can function as the miracast source. But it's simple enough from the Compute Stick (sink) side: just hit <WINDOWS>+K, then select Projecting to this PC and set Windows PCsand phones can project to this PC when you say it's OK to Always On and Require PIN for pairing to Off. Then the source device can discover the Compute Stick and project to it. When I did so I didn't have the presence of mind to play with the resolution, but YouTube videos seemed to play smoothly but with choppy, hence unusable, sound. Someone came by with a smart phone and I prevailed on him to test it as a miracast source. The Compute Stick sink still played YouTube video with choppy sound, so I guess the fault lies in the drivers on the Compute Stick
Bluetooth (Transfer files)
This isn't a Wi-Fi Direct feature of course, but I tried it as well and had nothing but problems. With the Compute Stick as the receiver, I right-clicked on the bluetooth icon in the system tray then selected Show bluetooth device->More bluetooth options->Allow bluetooth devices to find this PC, then OK.
On the desktop PC, I opened Windows Explorer with <WINDOWS>+E, navigated to the file I wanted to send right-clicked on it and selected Bluetooth Send File->Other Device and selected my Compute Stick. At this point bluetooth paring worked, but you have to be really fast because a notification comes up on both computers which times out in only a couple of seconds so if both computers are sharing the same monitor it times out before you can switch inputs. Then both devices want you to confirm that they've got the same code number and after you select Yes on both, they are paired. Unfortunately file transfer never happens and even getting as far as pairing usually doesn't happen. When something goes wrong you either have to wait for it to time out or reboot to reset bluetooth to some sort of unhung state. I hesitate to elaborate further on how injurious this was to my productivity as I might thus find myself banished to the Isle of the Popefigs.
The editor is getting slow so I think I'll break this post into two halves.