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That DVD writer was specifically made for your desktop; we cannot guarantee if it is going to work or not, I suggest you to buy an external DVD writer because the one you are trying to use it is most likely incompatible with the unit.
How are you powering the drive? That's probably the problem. Anyway, new USB DVD writers are dirt cheap. Probably cheaper than trying to get your old drive working with the correct SATA2USB/power adapters.
these dirt cheap drives are slow as hell. My desktop writer was at least 4 times as fast as these 2.5" drives (powered through USB). The adapters I have tried so far all had separate power (AC/DC power adapters). The solutions I haven't tried yet are buying a 5.25" external writer or external 5.25" enclosure for my writer (both are expensive). Though we need to move past optical drives, we still have needs for these for the time being.
Not sure what you consider "slow as hell", or what you are doing that requires lightening speed DVD burning. Asus, LG, Samsung, and LiteON all make very fast external burners for under $40.
Here's what I see:
- I grabbed a SATA-to-USB2 kit that I had in my spare parts cabinet. It is one that provides an external power brick for the drive. I connected it to an old SATA DVD drive and plugged it into my KY NUC. It was recognized immediately. To be sure, I inserted the installation DVD for a game. The NUC recognized the disk and, after a few seconds, started the game's installer running.
- Going a step further (and showing how much of a pack rat I am), I hauled out an ancient IDE-to-USB2 kit that I also had in my cabinet. It also provides a power brick for the drive. I connected an old IDE DVD drive to it and plugged it into my RY NUC. It was recognized immediately. I inserted the same installation DVD and the installer started running.
- I also tried the IDE kit connected to my SY NUC. No issues
- Finally, since all tests had the drive plugged into a USB 3.0 port on each NUC, I also tried using it connected to a USB 2.0 port (I have internal USB cable for the SY NUC).
Bottom line, this should work for you. I tested on RY (NUC5i5RY) , SY (NUC6i5SY) and KY (NUC6i7KY) NUCs. The fact that the kits you bought were USB 3.0 and mine are USB 2.0 should not matter (well, theoretically)...
I had similar experiences with USB-converted SATA drives. The external 5.25" drives I tried did not perform as well as my former ATX desktop SATA solutions. I'm a bit of an old school CD writer guy, and it seems that even from the early days of CD writing, USB has never evolved to a great connection for that purpose. I also rip a ton of audio CDs to MP3, and I found that ripping speeds were really bad in the USB-based optical drives and never reached the fully rated speed of the drive, compared to a typical desktop SATA experience (not just slimline optical either - I tried a lot of drives). A SATA optical drive connected via SATA offered the best and most reliable performance reading and writing that I found.
So, when I got my Haswell-based NUC last year, I took some steps to connect a true SATA optical drive to my NUC. It required a small "modification" to the NUC, so I would only recommend this to folks who are comfortable modding/building PCs.
In a nutshell, I have the following:
1) An "H-style" NUC supporting an internal 2.5" HDD.
2) An M.2 PCIe SSD as my only internal boot device - the 2.5" HDD SATA port is unoccupied (for now!).
3) An external 5.25" SATA to USB 3.0 enclosure. In my case, I used a Vantec NexStar DX NST-530S3-BK.
4) A traditional, SATA-based 5.25" optical drive. In my case, I used my former desktop's LG HL-DT-ST BD-RE GGW-H20L.
5) A typical internal SATA cable from a desktop PC. I believe mine is the shortest possible I could get away with (12"?). Also you will want to ensure one end has a right angle connector to clear the NUC's bottom cover.
To hook them all up, using native SATA, I took the following steps:
1) The goal of the external enclosure is mainly to provide power/cooling to the optical drive and to hold it. So, during assembly of the external optical drive system, I removed the USB 3.0 to SATA conversion board that was inside the enclosure (it was a separate board from the power supply system). This left a nice little hole to pass a SATA cable directly from the optical drive, and out the back of the enclosure (through the hole that was formerly there for the USB 3.0 port. I connected the SATA cable's straight connector (saving the right angle connector for the NUC later) to the optical drive, I snuck it through the port hole, and then I buttoned up the enclosure leaving the SATA cable dangling (for now).
2) On the NUC, I removed the bottom cover. This allowed me to then remove and set aside the 2.5" HDD bracket and cable assembly (you do not need this). When the cover was off, I found a small place along the back edge of the design where I could extend two of the slots/bend reliefs in the sheet metal cover, and fold the sheet metal back further, creating an escape route for the SATA cable on the NUC.
3) I set the NUC upside down, next to the external optical drive assembly. I connected the right angle connector of the SATA cable from the optical drive to the SATA header on the NUC's motherboard. I then put the bottom cover back on the NUC, being careful not to stress or pinch the SATA cable, and ensuring that it correctly fed through the opening I created. I then flipped the NUC over on top of the external optical drive enclosure, and there it has sat and worked fine for almost a year now.
The Good - Native SATA optical on a NUC! Works like every former desktop solution I have used. Software/Apps love it - rock solid performance.
The Bad - The manner in which I tethered the two enclosures with the SATA cable can be risky, especially if you forget they are connected this way and try to move them. I did experiment a bit with SATA Male-Female "extension cables" as a means of providing an external disconnect point between the two enclosures. Ultimately, I was just unhappy with the amount of cable mess this made in my case, and I did not want to introduce any additional point of failure (a midpoint cable connection) in my hacked SATA methods.
I hope this post inspires others and helps the original poster with a possible solution.